Shelley & Byron Lore House on Lake Geneva for Sale

mary_shelley_plaque_nernierAn historic property on the shore of Lake Geneva associated with the lives of Percy and Mary Shelley and Lord Byron is offered for sale for €2.7 million. A plaque on the house declares that Mary Shelley wrote some pages of Frankenstein there in April of 1816. Short of the known facts that Mary did not start Frankenstein until after June of 1816, and did not arrive in Geneva from Paris until May of 1816, the house is surely connected to the travels of Percy Shelley and Lord Byron.

​The now custom designed four bedroom home with beautiful lake views of the Jura Mountains is located in Nernier, Haute Savoie France, on the southern shore of Lac Leman and dates back to 1739. In Percy Shelley’s journals, he reports that on his boating trip with Lord Byron as his companion to circumnavigate the lake while Mary remained with Claire in the house they had rented, one of their first stops was at Nernier. Percy had noted that Polidori was unable to join them on their trip, due to an ankle sprain. The trip continued to the Chateau Chillon on the Swiss side, which inspired Byron’s Prisoner of Chillon.

nernier_house_shelleyThe present house at the time in 1816 was an auberge guest inn for travelers around the lake. It has been reconstructed into a modern four bedroom single family home on upper and lower floors, which had been owned for many years by a French family, who have decided to sell, now that children have grown and moved away.

The property is situated on the harbor’s edge in the little medieval village of Nernier, about twelve miles from the Cologny neighborhood where the Villa Diodati is to be found, and across the lake from the Chateau Coppet, where Shelley and Byron visited Madame DeStael. The house can be reached by road from Geneva along the lake, or a ferry crosses the lake from Nyon on the Swiss northern shore to Yvoire on the French south shore. The winter ski resort of Portes du Soleil is an hour’s drive away.

nernier_house_interiorThe house is described by the real estate listing with Leggett Prestige as having an entrance hall on the ground floor with an open-plan kitchen, dining and living area and a balcony with idyllic views across the lake. The first floor has an office area and lounge with a fireplace and another balcony. The second floor has a landing with a built-in double closet and two bedrooms, one with its own balcony.

At the time of Shelley and Byron’s stay there he described it in rather a different frame:

“Leaving Hermance, we arrived at sunset at the village of Nerni. After looking at our lodgings, which were gloomy and dirty, we walked out by the side of the lake. It was beautiful to see the vast expanse of these purple and misty waters broken by the craggy islets near to its slant beached margin. There were many fish sporting in the lake, and multitudes were collected close to the rocks to catch the flies which inhabited them.

On returning to the village, we sat on a wall beside the lake, looking at some children who were playing at a game like ninepins. The children here appeared in an extraordinary way deformed and diseased. Most of them were crooked, and with enlarged throats; but one little boy had such exquisite grace in his mien and motions, as I never before saw equaled in a child. His countenance was beautiful for the expression with which it overflowed. There was a mixture of pride and gentleness in his eyes and lips, the indications of sensibility, which his education will probably pervert to misery or seduce to crime; but there was more of gentleness than of pride, and it seemed that the pride was tamed from its original wildness by the habitual exercise of milder feelings.

My companion (Byron) gave him a piece of money, which he took without speaking, with a sweet smile of easy thankfulness, and then with an unembarrassed air turned to his play. The imagination surely could not forbear to breathe into the most inanimate forms some likeness of its own visions, on such a serene and glowing evening, in this remote and romantic village, beside the calm lake that bore us hither.

On returning to our inn, we found that the servant had arranged our rooms, and deprived them of the greater portion of their former disconsolate appearance. They reminded my companion of Greece: it was five years, he said, since he had slept in such beds. The influence of the recollections excited by this circumstance on our conversation gradually faded, and I retired to rest with no unpleasant sensations, thinking of our journey tomorrow, and of the pleasure of recounting the little adventures of it when we return.”

I’m sure the beds have much improved, and if you’re got a couple a million handy and looking for a beautiful location to live in France with a literary history, this might be a golden opportunity.

Photos Courtesy Leggett Prestige BNPS

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Paris to Geneva in Three Hours On TGV-Lyria

TGV Lyria200 years ago during that famous summer of 1816 when Mary and Percy Shelley left England for the second time to travel to Switzerland, where they would meet up with Lord Byron on the shores of Lake Geneva for the oft-told ghost story competition and the beginning of Frankenstein, it required about four days to travel from Paris to Geneva, by hired coach, with room for Clare and a few servants to carry all the luggage. Today, traveling from Paris to Geneva with a small group of friends or family takes 3 hours by train, on the High-Speed TGV-Lyria, the “bullet train’ of the SCNF French Railway.

And from now up through Christmas of 2018 and a little beyond, if you’ve a hankering to follow the trail of the Shelley’s with a family or small group of friends for an anniversary year exploration of the sights that inspired Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein, to visit the Bodmer Library where some of the Shelley documents reside or to see the Villa Diodati and walk through the garden, or just for a romantic adventure, Rail-Europe is offering TGV-LYRIA ticketing as a special discount for small groups.

From 1 September through 27 December the TGV-Lyria High Speed train which rockets through the Burgundy countryside to from France to Switzerland is offered at – for 3, 4, or 5 passengers traveling together. Rail Europe TGV-Lyria

*This is an affiliate link for FD gets a small commission from the supplier, but adds no cost.

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Assassination of Empress Sisi in Geneva

An Account of the Assassination of Empress Elizabeth of Austria and Queen of Hungary in Geneva by the Italian anarchist Lucheni.

Empress Elizabeth Sisi of AustriaThe most famous assassination of a Habsburg was the shooting of the Archduke Ferdinand by Yugoslav separatist Gavrilo Princip, while riding in a car in Sarajevo in 1914, which is deemed to be the catalyst which led to the beginning of the First World War. This was not the first murder of an Austro-Hungarian royal while traveling. Mary Shelley set the tragic events of her novel Frankenstein on the shores of Lake Geneva with the murder of Victor Frankenstein’s son on the Plainpalais by the creature he had created. This was the terrible retribution for his hubris of creating a living being and then abandoning him. A similar case might be made for the turning of the anarchists on the imperials in class warfare. The French Revolution, of which Mary’s mother Mary Wollstonecraft had been a witness and had written about, and the resulting end of the Emperor Napoleon, had been one of the draws which had brought Mary and Percy to Paris on their elopement tour in 1814 as told in the Secret Memoirs of Mary Shelley: The Frankenstein Diaries.

Empress Sisi and Contes SztataryAs Geneva celebrates the 200th anniversary of the origination of Frankenstein, for history buff sight-seeking visitors to Geneva who might be drawn by the story of Frankenstein, and looking for more to explore, here is an account of the curious murder of one of the most sympathetic of the Imperial family of Habsburgs who ruled and dominated the life of Central Europe.

There had been warnings of possible assassination movements when the popular Empress Elisabeth, more commonly called “Sisi” (or Sissi), now sixty years old and essentially estranged from her husband, the Emperor Franz Joseph, visited Geneva in 1898. She was traveling incognito, but such an illustrious personage is hard to keep quiet and an employee of the Hotel Beau Rivage, where she was staying, had bragged that the Empress of Austria was a guest.

Assassination of Embress ElizabethOn Saturday, the 10th of September, at 1:35 in the afternoon, Sisi and her lady-in-waiting and traveling companion, the Countess Irma Sztáray, 35, left the hotel to walk the short distance to the harbor dock to catch the steamship Genève for a scenic cruise journey to Montreux where she was residing. The empress like many others had followed the “Grand Tour” which began with the writings of Byron and the other romantics. The Empress Sisi didn’t like “processions,” and she had ordered that her servants take the train ahead to  Territet on the lake shore at Montreux where they would meet the boat after she had taking the scenic Lake Geneva cruise boat on the waters. Percy Shelly and George Lord Bryon had made this trip by row boat, now it was a tourist trip by paddle steamer.

Hotel Beau Rivage Geneva TodayThe two women were strolling on the promenade when a 25-year-old Italian man approached them. In an account by Countess Sztáray, the young man tried to peek under her mistress’s parasol, then, just as the ship’s bell rang to signal the departure, the man stumbled against her and made a movement with his hand as if he was trying to catch his balance. She was unaware at the moment it happened that he was actually holding a small weapon made of a sharpened four inch long needle file embedded into a wooden handle. The attacker was an Italian anarchist named Luigi Lucheni. The tool was used to file the eyes of industrial needles, intended by the assassin as a symbol of the rise of the industrial worker against the oppressor, and he later pronounced this as part of the anarchist creed, the “propaganda of the deed”, promoting the change of society by a violent action. His original plan was to assassinate the Duke of Orleans, a pretender to the throne of France, but the duke had departed on a tour of the Swiss Valais before he could make his move. Then, a Geneva newspaper had reported from the hotel source that a guest staying under the name of the “Countess of Hohenembs” was in fact the Empress Sisi of Austria, and he changed his target.

Lucheni declared at his trail. “I am an anarchist by conviction…I came to Geneva to kill a sovereign” as an example for those impoverished who take no action to improve their social position, “it did not matter to me who the sovereign was whom I should kill. It was not a woman I struck, but an Empress; it was a crown that I had in view.”

Paddle Steamer GenevaAfter Lucheni had made his sly attack and moved swiftly on, neither woman realized the seriousness of what had happened, that she had been stabbed. The empress weakened on her feet and a nearby coach driver rushed to assist her. He signaled to the concierge of the Beau Rivage, an Austrian named Planner, who was watching. Rather than return to the hotel, the coachman helped the two women to the boat dock, about a 100 yards, and up the gangway to board the Genève steamer. Countess Sztáray relaxed her hold on the empress’s arm and at that moment she collapsed unconscious on the boat deck. The companion called urgently for a doctor, but there was none on board and only a fellow passenger, a former nurse, came to aid. The captain of the Genève, a Captain Roux, was unaware of the true identity of the ill passenger and since it was a very hot day, advised that her companion should take her back to the hotel. This was impossible as the boat was already departing from the dock, and sailing out of harbor onto the lake. Three men carried the empress to the top deck and laid her on a bench. Countess Sztáray then opened her gown and cut the laces of her corset so she could take air. The empress came around briefly and her lady-in-waiting asked if she was in pain. “No”, Elizabeth answered, and then asked, “What has happened?” They were her last words as she lost consciousness.

It was then that the Countess Sztáray noticed a small brown stain above her mistress’s left breast, but still didn’t know what it was. Frightened that she had passed out a second time, the lady finally revealed who her companion was. The captain, recognizing the seriousness, immediately turned the boat to return to the Geneva harbor, where the empress was carried by sailors on an improvised stretcher made from two oars and a sail with seat cushions, back to the Hotel Beau Rivage.

assassination_weapon1The wife of the hotel chief was a nurse and when she and Sztáray began to undress the empress’s layers, they finally noticed the small stain of blood and the tiny puncture wound. The empress was still. She had breathed her last breaths as they had carried her into the room, but when they lifted her to a bed, she was certainly dead. Two doctors arrived and a priest. Dr. Mayer made a small incision in her arm, but there was no blood flow, and the Empress Elizabeth was pronounced dead at 2:20 pm and that Saturday afternoon. An autopsy was performed by Dr. Golay, who determined that the thin tool, just three and third inches, had pierced the lung and penetrated the heart. The pressure from the tight corsets the empress wore to control her slim figure, had kept the blood flow from the surface and had kept the empress from being aware of the wound. When the corseting was removed, the blood hemorrhage had filled the pericardial sac, stopping the heart.

Empress Elizabeth Funeral in ViennaShe had been placed in placed in a triple coffin, with two inner lead linings and a bronze exterior case with lion claw feet. On Tuesday, before the coffins were sealed, Franz Joseph’s official representatives arrived to identify the body. The coffin had two glass panels with doors which could be slid back to view her face. Eighty-three sovereigns and the nobility of the Austro-Hungarian Empire followed the funeral cortege of the hearse to her burial in the Habsburg crypt at the Church of the Capuchins in Vienna. The tomb inscription first denoted “Elisabeth, Empress of Austria”, but the words “and Queen of Hungary” were added after the protests of Hungarians.

empress_sisi_coffin

On Wednesday morning, Elisabeth’s body was carried back to Vienna aboard a funeral train. The inscription on her coffin read, “Elisabeth, Empress of Austria”. The Hungarians were outraged and the words, “and Queen of Hungary” were hastily added. The entire Austro-Hungarian Empire was in deep mourning; 82 sovereigns and high-ranking nobles followed her funeral cortege on the morning of 17 September to the Habsburg tomb in the Church of the Capuchins.

Rue Mont Blanc and Rue Des Alpes at Hotel De La Paix GenevaThe assassin had made his escape from the harbor down the Rue des Alpes and tossed the weapon into the doorway of No. 3 Rue des Alpes, which is now a storefront abutting the Hotel de La Paix. After an alarm was raised he was cornered by two sailors and a cab coachman until a gendarme could be called. The file was found by the building concierge who didn’t at first realize what it was as the sharp tip had broken off.

luigi_lucheni_arrestLuigi Lucheni was actually born Paris and left as an orphan and spent most of his life in Switzerland, so he was only really Italian by the parentage of his mother. But the news that the assassin of the adored Sisi was “Italian” caused a wave of anti-Italian reprisals through Switzerland. There was concern that a wave of political attacks was coming from cells of anarchists, but Lucheni claimed he was acting alone. But a few months later, the International Conference for the Social Defense Against Anarchists was held in Rome, but it failed to curb the movement, until another anarchist would fire the shot which sent the world into war and ended empires.

Lucheni wanted his trial moved to Lucerne when he learned that the Canton of Geneva had abolished the death penalty, as he wanted to be famous as a martyr. He was sentenced to life. He first unsuccessfully tried to kill himself with a sardine can key in 1900, but it was another ten years before he was found hanging by his belt in his cell in an apparent suicide.

In a bit of gruesome science theater worthy of Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein, Lucheni’s head was removed during autopsy and kept in a jar of formaldehyde for 100 years, first at the Institute of Forensic Science of the University of Geneva until 1985, then given to the Federal Museum of Pathology and Anatomy in Vienna, until finally buried at the Central Cemetery (Zentralfriedhof) in Vienna in the year 2000. The murder weapon can still be seen in the Sisi Museum at the Hofburg Palace in Vienna and Sisi’s hearse at Imperial Carriage Museum of the Schonbrunn Palace. You can still take the Lake Geneva cruise that Sisi never completed, or stay incognito at the Beau Rivage.

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Frankenstein Universal Movie Sets

Frankenstein and Bride of Frankenstein Europe Village Universal Studios Tour

Frankenstein Universal HollywoodTCM cable channel Turner Classic Movies recently ran a Boris Karloff day and I had a chance to watch the 1931 Frankenstein and the 1934 Bride of Frankenstein shot four years later, both directed by James Whale. The difference between the two movies was quite fascinating. Boris Karloff had gone in the credits from a “?” to simply the one name KARLOFF by the send movie, having become a household icon in between. The original film deviated so far from the original book to be almost unrecognizable, and oddly switched Victor to Henry Frankenstein and Victor’s friend from the book to Victor in the movie. The Bride of Frankenstein went back to the book to borrow more, and famously dramatized the introduction with Byron and Percy Shelley in Geneva.

It is striking that the second movie relies much more on a humorous slant to the material, with the added villain character of Dr. Pretorius almost a comedy. Boris Karloff’s make-up had changed to a heavier face with almost a receding hairline in some angles rather than the black bangs of the first. If you go to the Universal lot you can still run into a green-faced Frankenstein monster wandering about, ready to snap a selfie. It’s become rather standard for the movie Frankenstein to be green, but in the black & white films, the make-up was actually a monotone gray.

Universal 1931 Frankenstein Village SceneThe Frankenstein Village set had changed quite a bit as well. In the original it was a Bavarian style village with the Frankenstein family house a high ceiling mansion in the middle of the village with an entrance looking out on the street. In the Bride of Frankenstein, the town had turned into a larger walled castle city with a gate and drawbridge. In the first movie, the science lab was in a mill tower on a hill, in the second, a castle tower as part of the city complex. Both films were shot on the Universal studio back lot.

western_front_archThe 1931 Frankenstein village set was actually built for the World War I epic “All Quiet on the Western Front” shot by Lewis Milestone a year earlier in 1930, for where the soldiers left home to the fervor of marching bands, before the devastations of war. The archways and street scenes can be recognized between the two films, with the archway into town shot from different angles. Some small parts of the Old Europe called the Court of Miracles set on the Universal backlot is still there but much of the set areas were burned in a fire at the studio some years ago. A few remnants called Little Europe still remain on the Universal Studio Tour.

universal_tour_europeThe stored laboratory sets and equipment were famously used again in Mel Brook’s “Young Frankenstein” and some of those props still remain in the Universal props shop. The lake where the little girl scene was filmed is out in Agoura about 40 minutes from Universal out the 101 highway. Malibu Lake is now surrounded by houses and a golf course. The Paramount Movie Ranch with its much used western town set is about five minutes away from the lake, and is now actually a National Park as part of the Santa Monica Mountain Recreation Area, but the western sets, used for countless movies and TV shows also recently burned in a wild fire.

Curiously the idea of a Frankenstein Castle only comes from the movies, even though there never really was a complete one, and in the Mary Shelley novel, rather than working in a laboratory in a watch tower, Victor Frankenstein created his creature in his lodgings at Ingolstadt University. Imagine carrying dead body parts into your dorm late at night for a little all-nighter monster surgery. In the movie, the village where the Frankenstein’s lived was modified to a fictional “Goldstadt”. While a real village named Frankenstein, in the Rhineland of Germany where the ruins of a castle still guard on the hill above, bears little resemblance to the Bavarian Alps style architecture of the movie set design. TMC Hollywood Movie Locations Tour

Of course, the book is set in French speaking Switzerland and the country of the movie is never specifically stated, but it’s obvious German feel perhaps comes from the availability of the Bavarian style sets. The other oddity of the two movies Frankenstein and the Bride are the costumes. The original film was apparently set in contemporary 1930, post WWI, at least by the clothes, while for the Bride, they decided to make it more late 19th Century in style. It was the same director, so maybe budget played a part or they wanted to go more period in line with the Regency opening.

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Lord Byron Returns to Chillon in 2016

At least until August 21 in

1816-1820 Byron is back ! Lord Byron’s Return

byron_chillon12016 is the 200th anniversary year of the romantic poets and Frankenstein inspiration in Switzerland. A number of events and exhibits are being offered to celebrate the “romantics summer” of 1816.

Lord George Gordon Byron visited the shores of Lake Geneva for five months in the summer of 1816, from May through October. It was a busy and auspicious time for English Literature. While staying at rented estate, the Villa Diodati in the Cologny suburb of Geneva, and joined by new friends Mary and Percy Shelley, came the now famous origin of the Frankenstein story by Mary Shelley, and Lord Byron produced his haunting Prisoner of Chillon, inspired by the beautiful castle which guards the eastern lake shore at Montreux, (called Clarens in the days of the romantics).

chillon_castle_sunriseWhile the tale of the ghost story competition at the Villa Diodati which is the common telling of the origin for Frankenstein, of which one is reminded of the line “when the legend becomes the truth, print the legend” is being celebrated with its own 200th Anniversary at the Bodmer Foundation Library in Geneva, the trip of Byron and Percy Shelley around the lake is less familiar and the Chateau Chillon is presenting its own temporary exhibition to celebrate the 200 years since the visit of the poet to its dungeons which inspired him to write of the priest held captive as a political prisoner. The aim of the 2016 bicentennial summer exhibit is to offer an homage to the man who ignited the romantic travel desires of the reading public to follow in the footsteps of the literary pioneers who described beautiful far-away places with such emotion.

Read Secret Memoirs of Mary Shelley for the real love story origin of Frankenstein

During the five months stay at Lake Geneva from May 20 until October, the Shelleys and Bryon who had not met previously, became good friends that summer. Mary dedicated the first edition of Frankenstein to the “mad, bad, dangerous to know” poet and Percy Shelley and Bryon rented a boat to explore around the lake. The stop at the Chateau Chillon was brief, like any tourist’s visit might be, but the stories he heard of Francois Bonivard and his treatment in the hands of the Savoys caused him to begin his Prisoner of Chillon verse tale while staying on the Ouchy Riviera of Lausanne.

The “Byron Experience” Exhibition

byron_chillon_bookDuring the special exhibit a self-guided tour of Castle Chillon with present the experience of Byron through documents, rare publications and objects presented in context with a collection of evocative images to present visitors with the scope of work left to us by Byron, the rock star of his age. The exhibition has original and exceptional documents and objects on display lent by various prestigious institutions, including the Geneva State Archives, the National Library of Scotland and the University Library of Lausanne. Among the objects, is a manuscript of “The Prisoner of Chillon”, which was hand copied for Byron by Mary Shelley’s step-sister Claire Clairmont, who was pregnant with Byron’s daughter Allegra at the time. He didn’t get along with her, but she was dutiful to him. Also present is a first published edition, as well as numerous original editions written by Lord Byron.

For touring the sites visited by Bryon and Shelleys, and writing of in their journals, the exhibit offers an “Alpine Journal” guide, to retrace the footsteps of Lord Byron’s and explore the alpine landscapes of which inspired those first tourists so enchanted by Switzerland, that remains an inspirational today as it was 200 years ago. The exhibition is in French, English and German.

A combined ticket is available to see the Summer of 1816 exhibits around the lake, including 1816-1820 Byron is back ! Lord Byron’s Return at Chillon Castle and Frankenstein: Creation of Darkness at the Bodmer Foundation Library.

Other Events in Switzerland celebrating Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein and Bryon

mary_shelley_bellinzonaSeveral events are being held in 2016 and 2017 to celebrate Lord Byron and the friends coterie of the friends’ stay in Switzerland. The Musée du Léman holds an exhibition, Wanted! A la chasse sur le lac will be open until January 8, 2017. Byron himself appears in a large fresco by the artist Aloys. In Italian speaking Switzerland, just beyond the newly inaugurated Gotthard Base Tunnel, the Sasso Corbaro Castle of Bellinzona presents an exhibition about Mary Shelley & Frankenstein through the end of July.

For more about  Chillon Castle and Bellinzona in Favorite Castles of Switzerland

From 26 August, a musical comedy version of “Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein” will be presented at the Grand-Champ theatre in Gland before moving to Geneva. While in Geneva, the Musée Rath has organized an exhibition called “Le retour des Ténèbres” (Return from the Darkness) around the myths of vampires and Dr. Frankenstein’s monster which will run later in the season from December 2, 2016 to 19 March 19, 2017, while the Brocher Foundation Research for the Future of Human Being and Society in Hermance, Switzerland also has an exhibition cycle called 1816-2016: the Frankenstein Bicentennial and symposium June 14-15 on Frankenstein’s Shadow: A Bicentennial Assessment of the Frankenstein Narrative’s Influence on biotechnology, medicine and policy

Frankenstein: Creation of Darkness at the Bodmer Foundation

200 Year Anniversary in Geneva

frankenstein_illustrationEver since the publishing of the 1831 edition of Mary Shelley’s masterwork “Frankenstein: Or, the Modern Prometheus”, Geneva, Switzerland has been the touchstone of lore surround the creation of the most famous work of Gothic literature, with the story of the competition between the romantics gathered on a dark and stormy night when Mary Shelley had a nightmare, waking dream, where she got the idea for a creature brought to life by a student of science.

While a number of myths and suppositions about the summer of 1816 have arisen in the 200 years since that time, an exhibit at the Martin Bodmer Foundation Library, just a short walk from the Villa Diodati, rented by Lord Gordon Byron for that summer and the nearby house rented by the Shelleys on the shores of Lake Geneva, has opened to celebrate the creation of the monster of id, of Shelley’s novel.

bodmer_frontIn the lower exhibit floor of foundation library, a row of glass cases hold 15 hand-written note pages of the first from draft version of the classic story beginning “I beheld the wretch—the miserable monster whom I had created; he held up the curtain, and his eyes, if eyes they may be called, were fixed on me.”

The Villa Diodati is now converted to private residence apartments, the gardens of the villa over-looking the lake where then Mary Godwin (she wouldn’t marry Shelley until that December) and the pregnant Claire Clairmont might have strolled while Byron and Shelley were out exploring the lake, will be open for guided tours to the public during the length of the exhibit until October 9.

Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein novel was first published anonymously in 1818, and one of the editions found in the exhibit is inscribed to “To Lord Byron from the Author”.

Mary also wrote of the gloominess of the weather that summer and the exhibit features a weather report for June remarking on the late leafing of the trees. The weather has since been attributed to a volcanic eruption Mt. Tambora in Indonesia which created havoc with the climate across the globe that year.

While in Geneva other Shelley sites that can be visited including the statue of the “creature” named “Frankie” on the Plainpalais where the murder of the Frankenstein’s son took place in the novel, the Hotel d’Angleterre (not the actual one the Shelleys stayed at but a block from the spot, the birth house of Jean Jacques Rousseau whose writing ignited the romantic literature movement and drew the English romantics to Switzerland, and spots around the lake visited by Bryon and Shelley, from the Chateau Chillon  castle which inspired the Prisoner of Chillon for Byron, and the Hotel de l’Ancre in Lausanne where he began to write the work for which he abandoned his original idea of a vampire from legends he had heard in Turkey that he turned over to Polidori.

Creation of Darkness May 14-Oct 9 Martin Bodmer Foundation

The Mary Shelley Pub Bournemouth Dorset

the_mary_shelley_pubMary Wollstonecraft Shelley probably did not spend a lot of time in pubs, as in very few casual meetings or clandestine trysts of “meet me for a pint”, though in her travels she certainly stayed in many inns of one kind or another, as in a few scenes in “Frankenstein Diaries: The Secret Memoirs of Mary Shelley“, but 200 years after creating the classic of Frankenstein she finally has a pub named for her.

Mary Shelley is buried in the Shelley family vault in the graveyard of St Peter’s Churchyard in Bournemouth, where she was interred by her son Sir Percy Florence Shelley after her death in London in 1851. The family tomb, now primarily a large marker also holds some remains of her husband Percy Bysshe Shelley (his heart, as family legend has it, brought back from Italy where his body was burned after he died of drowning). St Peter’s was the Shelley family parish church near Boscombe Manor, now part of Bournemouth and Poole College. Sir Percy Shelley bought Boscombe Manor, a modest estate in 1849 and renovated it with the intent of its being a home for his mother away from the industrial air of Victorian London, but she died before it was finished, so Sir Percy and his wife made it their home, and would have uncovered the Mary Shelley Secret Memoirs and private letters of the Frankenstein Diaries while assessing her belongings on the move from London.

mary_shelley_pub_diningWhile not the half-timber historic sort of pub from days past, but rather a new and modern restaurant and part of the Wetherspoon’s chain of pubs, The Mary Shelly is located directly across from the Parish Church of St Peter’s and the Churchyard. The menu of budget family dining and ales probably would have appealed to Mary as her tastes rather lent themselves to the frugal and functional, while her step-sister Claire might have found it rather more modest than her ambitions. Apparently the Sirloin beef is quite the specialty of Wetherspoons and Mary might have appreciated the story of the knighting of the beef by King James.

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Frankenstein In Switzerland

Follow the travels of Mary Shelley, Percy Shelly and Lord Byron in Switzerland

Villa Diodati Plate Overlooking Lake Geneva

Villa Diodati on Lake Geneva

Most people casually familiar with Frankenstein who have not read the novel, usually seem to get the idea that the creator of the monster was German and the events happened there. This mostly comes from the movie and the name, with lots of Bavarian costumed villagers carrying pitchforks on a Hollywood backlot. Though for anyone truly familiar with Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley’s novel of “Frankenstein: or, The Modern Prometheus” know that Victor Frankenstein was from Geneva, Switzerland, and many events of the story take place in and around the Lake Geneva region of southern Switzerland. And curiously, though the name is German in origin, Geneva is in French speaking Switzerland, so the added confusion.

Many fans of the story are familiar a bit with the story of the beginnings of Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley’s novel of Frankenstein, related in a later edition introduction to the book, telling of the summer of 1816, when Mary Godwin, Percy Byssche Shelley, and Lord Byron, along with travelling companions John Polidori and Claire Clairmont gathered on the shores of Lake Geneva at a villa rented by Byron, and the contest to tell a scare story, but there is far more to discover in Switzerland than a single rental villa from long ago.

Those fascinated with the origins of the most famous monster story and the inspirations of the Romantics, the authors of the late 18th and early 19th Century who came to Switzerland to discover the still pristine wonders, might follow the clues left buried in the pages. Many of the passages in the Frankenstein novel are taken almost directly from the journals of the Shelleys’ travels.

Rousseau Plaque Geneva

Jean-Jacques Rousseau Birth House Geneva

A tour to follow the romantics might start in Geneva. The founders of the Romanticism movement in English literature were inspired by Genevan author Jean-Jacques Rousseau whose “Julie, or The New Heloise” based on a then “modern” retelling of the French legend of Abelard and Heloise, which Rousseau sets in scenes around Lake Geneva, attracted the likes of Byron and the Shelleys.

The Villa Diodati in the upscale Cologny suburb of Geneva where Byron stayed and the ghost story contest legend originated is not open to tourists, but is a private residence. But nearby, is the Bodmer Library, with a collection of rare books and manuscripts, which would have fascinated the Shelleys. While Mary and Claire stayed behind (Mary had brought her infant son and Claire was pregnant) Byron and Percy Shelley sailed a boat around the lake, visiting the castle of the Chateau Chillon and sites around Montreux (Clarens) and Vevey. Just as they did, you can visit the most famous castle in Switzerland and taste the wines of the 500 year old vineyards of the Lavaux Region.

Chateau Chillon Montreux

Chateau Chillon Lake Geneva

Byron and Shelley stopped at Ouchy in Lausanne where now the Lake Geneva Cruise boats depart for cruises of beautiful Lake Leman. Byron began his story of the Prisoner of Chillon while they stayed in the Hotel d’Angleterre in Ouchy, now commemorated with a plaque and a partner hotel of the neighboring Beau Rivage Palace Hotel. The Shelleys stayed at the Hotel d’Angleterre in Geneva (Secheron) before meeting up with Byron. The original of that one is gone, but an historic luxury hotel of the same name, for its English tourist visitors on the Grand Tour, remains about a block from where the original stood. Lord Byron also paid several visits to the literary salons of Madame de Stael, a nemesis of Napoleon and a renowned author herself, at her Chateau Coppet, which is open to the public.

Mary Shelley took many of the inspirations for the settings of her novel from the environs of Geneva. The murder of Victor Frankenstein’s son, William, by the monster he created she set on the Plaine de Plainpalais, where an art statue of the creature now stands, affectionately named “Frankie”. She chose this location because of its connection to Rousseau, when even then a monument to him was located there for its part in the uprising of the common man. The Frankenstein family house she set within the town of Belrive (Collogne-Bellerive), on the south shore of the lake, a short distance from where the Shelleys’ rented a house to be near Lord Byron’s rental at Villa Diodati in Cologny.

   “It was completely dark when I arrived in the environs of Geneva; the gates of the town were already shut; and I was obliged to pass the night at Secheron, a village at the distance of half a league from the city. The sky was serene; and, as I was unable to rest, I resolved to visit the spot where my poor William had been murdered. As I could not pass through the town, I was obliged to cross the lake in a boat to arrive at Plainpalais. During this short voyage I saw the lightning playing on the summit of Mont Blanc in the most beautiful figures… the thunder burst with a terrific crash over my head. It was echoed from Saleve, the Juras, and the Alps of Savoy…” Frankenstein

She wrote of the creature in the snowy mountains of the Mont Blanc range and Chamonix, where the creature hid with a local village farm family and Victor Frankenstein would search for his creation.

       “I passed the bridge of Pelissier, where the ravine, which the river forms, opened before me, and I began to ascend the mountain that overhangs it. Soon after, I entered the valley of Chamounix.” Frankenstein   

Geneva is only a possible beginning of a tour. Less known, is the journey Mary Godwin and Percy Shelley made in 1814 when they eloped from London, when Mary was only 16, and ran away to Paris with Mary’s step-sister Claire Clairmont, then traveled across France to Switzerland, then up the Rhine River. This journey of the romantic tour of Mary Shelley and Percy Shelley is told in “The Frankenstein Diaries: The Secret Memoirs of Mary Shelley.

The threesome entered Switzerland from France and crossed the Jura mountains to Neuchatel (Neufchatel), where they stayed at a hotel in approximately the location of today’s Beau Rivage Neuchatel, with the same lake views the romantic travelers would have seen. Railways did not exist in 1814 and 1816, so rather than tour Switzerland by foot or horse coach, today it’s easy to visit these Switzerland sites by rail with a Swiss Pass Rail Pass. From Geneva, Neuchatel is a quick trip. Cruise the three lakes, and visit the watch-making district of La Chaux-de-Fonds in the Jura Mountains.

Lake Uri

Lake Uri at Brunnen

From Neuchatel, their path took them to Lucerne, passing through Solothurn, for a look at the cathedral. It was new at the time and they found the neo-classic formal architecture, with its crisp white marble, a bit unappealing. From Lucerne they took a boat to Brunnen where Lake Lucerne meets Lake Uri. They were fascinated by the story of William Tell and his part in the founding of Switzerland, and today you can take the Wilhelm Tell Express cruise and train route. One might pause to wonder, then, why Victor Frankenstein’s son was named William.

      “I have seen the most beautiful scenes of my own country; I have visited the lakes of Lucerne and Uri, where the snowy mountains descend almost perpendicularly to the water, casting black and impenetrable shades, which would cause a gloomy and mournful appearance were it not for the most verdant islands… I have seen this lake agitated by a tempest, when the wind tore up whirlwinds of water and gave you an idea of what the water-spout must be on the great ocean; and the waves dash with fury the base of the mountain, where the priest and his mistress were overwhelmed by an avalanche and where their dying voices are still said to be heard amid the pauses of the nightly wind; I have seen the mountains of La Valais, and the Pays de Vaud; but this country, Victor, pleases me more than all those wonders…” Frankenstein

The house where they stayed on Lake Lucerne is long gone, but Brunnen, or just down the shore, Vitznau or Weggis, offer a wonderful place to stop and explore the Lake Lucerne Riviera with the walking trails of the mountains Mary Shelley described, or the historic mountain train to Mt Rigi which would come later. When their money ran out, they took a boat back to Lucerne, admiring the chapel bridge and staying at a hotel, possibly the Wilden Mann which still exists. Then, by boat they followed the Reuss River to the Rhine, crossing the falls and on to Basel. Explore the Rhine Falls at Schaffhausen, and explore the very historic city of Basel, before getting on a plane or train back to France or continue to Germany where they traveled the Rhine River past the Castle of Frankenstein.

        “We had agreed to descend the Rhine in a boat from Strasbourg to Rotterdam, whence we might take shipping for London. During this voyage we passed many willowy islands and saw several beautiful towns. We stayed a day at Mannheim, and on the fifth from our departure from Strasbourg, arrived at Mainz. The course of the Rhine below Mainz becomes much more picturesque. The river descends rapidly and winds between hills, not high, but steep, and of beautiful forms. We saw many ruined castles standing on the edges of precipices, surrounded by black woods, high and inaccessible. This part of the Rhine, indeed, presents a singularly variegated landscape. In one spot you view rugged hills, ruined castles overlooking tremendous precipices, with the dark Rhine rushing beneath; and on the sudden turn of a promontory, flourishing vineyards with green sloping banks and a meandering river and populous towns occupy the scene…” Frankenstein

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