Paris to Geneva in Three Hours On TGV-Lyria

TGV Lyria200 years ago during that famous summer of 1816 when Mary and Percy Shelley left England for the second time to travel to Switzerland, where they would meet up with Lord Byron on the shores of Lake Geneva for the oft-told ghost story competition and the beginning of Frankenstein, it required about four days to travel from Paris to Geneva, by hired coach, with room for Clare and a few servants to carry all the luggage. Today, traveling from Paris to Geneva with a small group of friends or family takes 3 hours by train, on the High-Speed TGV-Lyria, the “bullet train’ of the SCNF French Railway.

And from now up through Christmas of 2018 and a little beyond, if you’ve a hankering to follow the trail of the Shelley’s with a family or small group of friends for an anniversary year exploration of the sights that inspired Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein, to visit the Bodmer Library where some of the Shelley documents reside or to see the Villa Diodati and walk through the garden, or just for a romantic adventure, Rail-Europe is offering TGV-LYRIA ticketing as a special discount for small groups.

From 1 September through 27 December the TGV-Lyria High Speed train which rockets through the Burgundy countryside to from France to Switzerland is offered at – for 3, 4, or 5 passengers traveling together. Rail Europe TGV-Lyria

*This is an affiliate link for FD gets a small commission from the supplier, but adds no cost.

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Mary Shelley in Bath – Frankenstein Begins

Tragedy, Turmoil and Creativity for the Shelleys in Bath

5 Abbey Churchyard Bath

Shelley’s 5 Abbey Churchyard

The city of Bath makes a great deal of fuss about its place in the life of Regency author Jane Austen. There’s an Austen Centre, exhibits and annual celebrations, tour marketing and the like. Austen lived in Bath for nine years from 1800 to 1809, but her time in Bath was not especially significant in her own literary history. She wrote the drafts of her completed novels before moving there, and she was not published until after she had left. While for the longest time, the city barely acknowledged its place in the life of Austen’s contemporary author, Mary Shelley, who developed and wrote a significant portion of her greatest work while a resident there. A museum for the author of Frankenstein is now in the planning stage.

Though only a fairly brief five months, the time spent in Bath by Mary Godwin, Percy Shelley and Clare Clairmont in 1816 were some of the most tumultuous and eventful in their story and in the formulation of Mary’s novel of Frankenstein. Within this few months, a birth and two suicides would deeply affect them, and by the time they left, Mary Godwin would be Mrs. Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley.

After departing the company of Byron in Geneva, the Shelley party, Shelley, Mary, Clare, the Shelleys’ two-year-old son, William, and a nurse, Elise Duvillard, hired in Switzerland, returned back to England. They travelled through France on a different route than they had taken in 1814, passing through Dijon, Auxerre, and Villeneuve, while stopping for brief tourist visits at the palaces of Fontainebleau and Versailles, and to Rouen for the Cathedral. They sailed from Le Havre to Portsmouth on the 8th of September, 1816.

Bath Then and NowFrom Portsmouth, Shelley separated from the two sisters to see his friend, Thomas Peacock, in Great Marlow, while Mary and Clare went to Bath. Clare’s pregnancy by Byron was beginning to show or make her condition, at least, clear by this time, and the idea was to find a distant lodging from London. Mary was still estranged from her father for her relationship with Shelley and they thought to conceal Clare’s condition. She was still using alternate spellings of her chosen name, Claire or Clare. It was mostly Claire in Switzerland and France using the French spelling, and Clare or Clara in England. Mary was confused enough to use both spellings in the same letter, while others of the family were still calling her by her birth name, Jane (Mary Jane, after her mother).

Mary Godwin wrote two diary entries of their arrival in Bath:

Tuesday, September 10.—Arrive at Bath about 2. Dine, and spend the evening in looking for lodgings. Read Mrs. Robinson’s Valcenga.

Wednesday, September 11.—Look for lodgings; take some, and settle ourselves. Read the first volume of The Antiquary, and work.

Mary had begun a short story version of the “nightmare” vision of that summer while in Switzerland, which Byron had referred to as a “Pygmalion” tale of making a man, but with Shelley’s encouragement, she had decided to write a full novel, which she began in earnest at Bath, writing the first chapters of Frankenstein. She had been writing in a notebook she had purchased in Geneva, but purchased new English paper notebooks in Bath for her longer vision.

The Shelleys had two lodging locations in Bath. The first address was No 5 Abbey Churchyard, on the main square across from the west front of the Bath Abbey. That building, which housed a reading library which may have attracted Mary’s notice, and apartments, was torn down in 1889 to make way for the addition of the Victorian Queen’s Bath expansion of the Bath Pump Room. The other address was two blocks away at No 12 New Bond Street. Shelley was travelling for much of this time, dealing with money issues, negotiations with his father, Sir Timothy Shelley, over his inheritance and the two tragic suicide events, as well as looking for a hoped permanent house to settle in near his friend in Marlow.

In early October, Shelley was corresponding from the 5 Abbey Churchyard address to both Godwin, regarding money he had promised to lend, and to publisher John Murray regarding the eminent publishing of The Third Canto of Byron’s Childe Harold. Shelley was waiting for the publishing proofs to be sent to him at that address where he expected to remain for the winter. For her part, Mary addressed her letters from the 12 New Bond Street address, where Clare was residing. One might conjecture that this was an attempt to show Shelley and Mary, still unwed, to be living separately, or they may have set the nurse and her son in New Bond Street with the pregnant Clare, so that she could be with Shelley when he was in Bath. Mary referred to her step-sister, “looking in on” her, so they were for at least some time apart.

Not long after settling, Mary travelled to Marlow on the 19th of September to meet Shelley and returned on the 25th. They received an alarming letter from Fanny sent from Bristol on the 9th of October and Shelley went to find her, following her to Swansea where she had committed suicide. Mary noted in her diary on 12 October “buy mourning” purchasing mourning clothes for Fanny’s death, although there was no funeral and the body was unclaimed to keep her anonymity and reputation. Mary was writing Frankenstein off and on through this period with a number of references to writing in her diary, making revisions as she went.

She was reading sea voyage literature at this time, suggesting she was writing the Captain Walton beginning of the novel, inspired by her youthful visits to Dundee, Scotland. She was also reading Sir Humphrey Davy’s reference on chemistry, as she was working on Victor Frankenstein’s studies and scientific background. Davey was the originator of ideas of electro-chemistry and voltaic batteries which had so intrigued a young Percy Shelley at Oxford.

Mary wrote a letter on the 5th of December in good spirits to Shelley in Marlow that she had completed “chapter four” (the bringing to life Victor’s creature), but also involving Safie and the creature’s language learning, which she noted she thought was long. She later edited this significantly shorter for the published 1818 version, separating into two chapters. She was also concerned with Shelley’s tendency to latch onto the first house he might find, and seemed to have a wish not to have to live with her sister, which had been nearly constant for two years.

“I was awakened this morning by my pretty babe, and was dressed time enough to take my lesson from Mr. West, and (thank God) finished that tedious ugly picture I have been so long about. I have also finished the fourth chapter of Frankenstein, which is a very long one, and I think you would like it. And where are you? and what are you doing? my blessed love. … in the choice of a residence, dear Shelley, pray be not too quick or attach yourself too much to one spot. … A house with a lawn, a river or lake, noble trees, and divine mountains, that should be our little mouse-hole to retire to. But never mind this; give me a garden, and absentia Claire, and I will thank my love for many favours.”

In November, Shelley was reading Plutarch’s “Lives” and Milton’s “Paradise Lost”, and this seems to have crept into Mary’s writing, as she has the creature reading these while in the De Lacey Cottage in Chamonix.

Shelley returned to Bath from Marlow on the 14th of December, but the next day, the 15th , was informed in a letter from Thomas Hookham that his wife, Harriet Westbrook Shelley, was found drowned in the Serpentine Lake of Hyde Park. She had been missing from her residence for three weeks. She was named only as Harriet Smith at the inquest, a named she had used for a lodging in Queen Street. She had left no note, and little evidence was given, though a rumor suggested she was deserted by a household groom and that she had a proclivity to suicidal thoughts since her youth. The London Times reported only that a respectable lady she was found drowned “advanced in pregnancy”. Mary made no comment on the event of Harriet’s death, but she was enthusiastic to support Shelley’s effort to take custody of the children, Ianthe and Charles, and the Shelleys were now free to marry and hoped for a reconciliation with her father.

“How very happy shall I be to possess those darling treasures that are yours. I do not exactly understand what Chancery has to do in this, and wait with impatience for to-morrow, when I shall hear whether they are with you; and then what will you do with them? My heart says, bring them instantly here; but I submit to your prudence. You do not mention Godwin. When I receive your letter to-morrow I shall write to Mrs. Godwin. I hope, yet I fear, that he will show on this occasion some disinterestedness. Poor, dear Fanny, if she had lived until this moment she would have been saved, for my house would then have been a proper asylum for her.”

Shelley returned to visit Peacock in Marlow to search for a house they might take as a permanent residence and visited Leigh Hunt, the Publisher of the Examiner, beginning a long friendship. Mary Godwin and Percy Bysshe Shelley went to London on December 30, 1816 to be married at St Mildred’s Church, and stayed with the Leigh Hunts. Godwin and Mrs. Godwin also attended the wedding. It was the first time Mary had seen her father since he banned them from Skinner Street after their return from the elopement in 1814. Clare stayed in Bath and Mary promised her a quick return.

Mary stopped writing on her novel during this time. Clare bore her daughter on January 12, 1817. She first named her Alba, in honor of the Shelleys’ nickname for Lord Byron, “Albe” (LB), put prudently changed the name later to Allegra, to avoid the too obvious connection. Mary wrote of “4 days of idleness” in her diary. Her son William’s first birthday was on January 24. Shelley had been in London since the 6th in Chancery Court arguing for custody of his children by Harriet, a suit he lost, despite Mary’s enthusiastic support. The Westbrooks had fought against his taking in the children, using his “atheistic” writings in Queen Mab as evidence of a lack of moral fitness. The children were sent to an unrelated clergyman in Warwick where Harriet had been living. The Shelleys left Bath on February 27, 1816 for Marlow. Mary was pregnant for the third time and beginning on a second notebook volume of her novel.

Take short tour of Bath today.

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Frankenstein In Switzerland

Follow the travels of Mary Shelley, Percy Shelly and Lord Byron in Switzerland

Villa Diodati Plate Overlooking Lake Geneva

Villa Diodati on Lake Geneva

Most people casually familiar with Frankenstein who have not read the novel, usually seem to get the idea that the creator of the monster was German and the events happened there. This mostly comes from the movie and the name, with lots of Bavarian costumed villagers carrying pitchforks on a Hollywood backlot. Though for anyone truly familiar with Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley’s novel of “Frankenstein: or, The Modern Prometheus” know that Victor Frankenstein was from Geneva, Switzerland, and many events of the story take place in and around the Lake Geneva region of southern Switzerland. And curiously, though the name is German in origin, Geneva is in French speaking Switzerland, so the added confusion.

Many fans of the story are familiar a bit with the story of the beginnings of Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley’s novel of Frankenstein, related in a later edition introduction to the book, telling of the summer of 1816, when Mary Godwin, Percy Byssche Shelley, and Lord Byron, along with travelling companions John Polidori and Claire Clairmont gathered on the shores of Lake Geneva at a villa rented by Byron, and the contest to tell a scare story, but there is far more to discover in Switzerland than a single rental villa from long ago.

Those fascinated with the origins of the most famous monster story and the inspirations of the Romantics, the authors of the late 18th and early 19th Century who came to Switzerland to discover the still pristine wonders, might follow the clues left buried in the pages. Many of the passages in the Frankenstein novel are taken almost directly from the journals of the Shelleys’ travels.

Rousseau Plaque Geneva

Jean-Jacques Rousseau Birth House Geneva

A tour to follow the romantics might start in Geneva. The founders of the Romanticism movement in English literature were inspired by Genevan author Jean-Jacques Rousseau whose “Julie, or The New Heloise” based on a then “modern” retelling of the French legend of Abelard and Heloise, which Rousseau sets in scenes around Lake Geneva, attracted the likes of Byron and the Shelleys.

The Villa Diodati in the upscale Cologny suburb of Geneva where Byron stayed and the ghost story contest legend originated is not open to tourists, but is a private residence. But nearby, is the Bodmer Library, with a collection of rare books and manuscripts, which would have fascinated the Shelleys. While Mary and Claire stayed behind (Mary had brought her infant son and Claire was pregnant) Byron and Percy Shelley sailed a boat around the lake, visiting the castle of the Chateau Chillon and sites around Montreux (Clarens) and Vevey. Just as they did, you can visit the most famous castle in Switzerland and taste the wines of the 500 year old vineyards of the Lavaux Region.

Chateau Chillon Montreux

Chateau Chillon Lake Geneva

Byron and Shelley stopped at Ouchy in Lausanne where now the Lake Geneva Cruise boats depart for cruises of beautiful Lake Leman. Byron began his story of the Prisoner of Chillon while they stayed in the Hotel d’Angleterre in Ouchy, now commemorated with a plaque and a partner hotel of the neighboring Beau Rivage Palace Hotel. The Shelleys stayed at the Hotel d’Angleterre in Geneva (Secheron) before meeting up with Byron. The original of that one is gone, but an historic luxury hotel of the same name, for its English tourist visitors on the Grand Tour, remains about a block from where the original stood. Lord Byron also paid several visits to the literary salons of Madame de Stael, a nemesis of Napoleon and a renowned author herself, at her Chateau Coppet, which is open to the public.

Mary Shelley took many of the inspirations for the settings of her novel from the environs of Geneva. The murder of Victor Frankenstein’s son, William, by the monster he created she set on the Plaine de Plainpalais, where an art statue of the creature now stands, affectionately named “Frankie”. She chose this location because of its connection to Rousseau, when even then a monument to him was located there for its part in the uprising of the common man. The Frankenstein family house she set within the town of Belrive (Collogne-Bellerive), on the south shore of the lake, a short distance from where the Shelleys’ rented a house to be near Lord Byron’s rental at Villa Diodati in Cologny.

   “It was completely dark when I arrived in the environs of Geneva; the gates of the town were already shut; and I was obliged to pass the night at Secheron, a village at the distance of half a league from the city. The sky was serene; and, as I was unable to rest, I resolved to visit the spot where my poor William had been murdered. As I could not pass through the town, I was obliged to cross the lake in a boat to arrive at Plainpalais. During this short voyage I saw the lightning playing on the summit of Mont Blanc in the most beautiful figures… the thunder burst with a terrific crash over my head. It was echoed from Saleve, the Juras, and the Alps of Savoy…” Frankenstein

She wrote of the creature in the snowy mountains of the Mont Blanc range and Chamonix, where the creature hid with a local village farm family and Victor Frankenstein would search for his creation.

       “I passed the bridge of Pelissier, where the ravine, which the river forms, opened before me, and I began to ascend the mountain that overhangs it. Soon after, I entered the valley of Chamounix.” Frankenstein   

Geneva is only a possible beginning of a tour. Less known, is the journey Mary Godwin and Percy Shelley made in 1814 when they eloped from London, when Mary was only 16, and ran away to Paris with Mary’s step-sister Claire Clairmont, then traveled across France to Switzerland, then up the Rhine River. This journey of the romantic tour of Mary Shelley and Percy Shelley is told in “The Frankenstein Diaries: The Secret Memoirs of Mary Shelley.

The threesome entered Switzerland from France and crossed the Jura mountains to Neuchatel (Neufchatel), where they stayed at a hotel in approximately the location of today’s Beau Rivage Neuchatel, with the same lake views the romantic travelers would have seen. Railways did not exist in 1814 and 1816, so rather than tour Switzerland by foot or horse coach, today it’s easy to visit these Switzerland sites by rail with a Swiss Pass Rail Pass. From Geneva, Neuchatel is a quick trip. Cruise the three lakes, and visit the watch-making district of La Chaux-de-Fonds in the Jura Mountains.

Lake Uri

Lake Uri at Brunnen

From Neuchatel, their path took them to Lucerne, passing through Solothurn, for a look at the cathedral. It was new at the time and they found the neo-classic formal architecture, with its crisp white marble, a bit unappealing. From Lucerne they took a boat to Brunnen where Lake Lucerne meets Lake Uri. They were fascinated by the story of William Tell and his part in the founding of Switzerland, and today you can take the Wilhelm Tell Express cruise and train route. One might pause to wonder, then, why Victor Frankenstein’s son was named William.

      “I have seen the most beautiful scenes of my own country; I have visited the lakes of Lucerne and Uri, where the snowy mountains descend almost perpendicularly to the water, casting black and impenetrable shades, which would cause a gloomy and mournful appearance were it not for the most verdant islands… I have seen this lake agitated by a tempest, when the wind tore up whirlwinds of water and gave you an idea of what the water-spout must be on the great ocean; and the waves dash with fury the base of the mountain, where the priest and his mistress were overwhelmed by an avalanche and where their dying voices are still said to be heard amid the pauses of the nightly wind; I have seen the mountains of La Valais, and the Pays de Vaud; but this country, Victor, pleases me more than all those wonders…” Frankenstein

The house where they stayed on Lake Lucerne is long gone, but Brunnen, or just down the shore, Vitznau or Weggis, offer a wonderful place to stop and explore the Lake Lucerne Riviera with the walking trails of the mountains Mary Shelley described, or the historic mountain train to Mt Rigi which would come later. When their money ran out, they took a boat back to Lucerne, admiring the chapel bridge and staying at a hotel, possibly the Wilden Mann which still exists. Then, by boat they followed the Reuss River to the Rhine, crossing the falls and on to Basel. Explore the Rhine Falls at Schaffhausen, and explore the very historic city of Basel, before getting on a plane or train back to France or continue to Germany where they traveled the Rhine River past the Castle of Frankenstein.

        “We had agreed to descend the Rhine in a boat from Strasbourg to Rotterdam, whence we might take shipping for London. During this voyage we passed many willowy islands and saw several beautiful towns. We stayed a day at Mannheim, and on the fifth from our departure from Strasbourg, arrived at Mainz. The course of the Rhine below Mainz becomes much more picturesque. The river descends rapidly and winds between hills, not high, but steep, and of beautiful forms. We saw many ruined castles standing on the edges of precipices, surrounded by black woods, high and inaccessible. This part of the Rhine, indeed, presents a singularly variegated landscape. In one spot you view rugged hills, ruined castles overlooking tremendous precipices, with the dark Rhine rushing beneath; and on the sudden turn of a promontory, flourishing vineyards with green sloping banks and a meandering river and populous towns occupy the scene…” Frankenstein

Secret Memoirs of Mary Shelley  – E-Book

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